Note: I've found links to this write-up on various Grand Prix sites and credit is being given to some guy: Larry AKA Big L...
This is NOT his write-up! It looks like he just copied MY write up, and linked to the images... Not cool...
http://www.automotiveforums.com/t329360.html
(Click on images for larger view)
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Tools used: Pair of sidecutters |
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First remove the module from the steering wheel. This may be kind of tricky. There are no bolts or screws holding it in, it should just pull out. There are wires attached to the back of the module, a clip in the middle of the harness separates the harness from the module. The harness looks like a CD-ROM audio cable connector. Once removed from the car you will have to pull back some of the stickers/labels on the unit, so it can pull apart freely. |
| Once the stickers and such are moved for free access to separate it, use the jewelers screwdriver to push in the tabs and carefully separate it into the pieces below. |
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Here you can see the parts disassembled. The front with the two smaller buttons, the main volume button, the pin the volume button rocks on, and the back of the unit with the circuit board. Make sure to not loose the pin. it will fall out easilly as the only thing that holds the pin in and stops it from going side to side is when the unit is back together. |
| The circuit board is held onto the back piece by a very tiny screw with a hex head. Use the needle nose plires to remove this. Be careful as to not let the plires slip off the nut and damage the resistor next to it. Take your time doing this. The red bulb that lights up the module is near the bottom. There is a red plastic cover over it. |
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The rear separated form the circuit board with screw shown. |
| Be careful pulling the flexable plastic cover off of the light bulb. without that you will loose the red glow your modules have at night, and it will not match your pontiac interior lights. I was haste and tore the tip of my bulb cover off. |
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Here is a picture of the new bulb. It is from Radio Shack: P/N 272-1092C. 2 per package. #7219 Micro Lamps. 12 Volts 60mA. Wire-terminal base. The two lines represent the wires inside the bulb that hold the filament. at the top, how it curves to the right, that is how the bulb must point twords the bottom of the module (twords the two smaller buttons that are side by side) |
| The new bulb is in and soldered. The old bulb was removed by crushing it with the needle nose plires over a garbage can to catch the glass. Then use the soldering iron to heat up the solder joints of the wires left, and pull them out. The hot solder will seal up the holes once the wires are removed. Heat up the solder joints again, and from the backside stick a pin (or thin scribe) thru the hole to "pierce" it. Then solder in the new bulb and make sure the filament is in as described. |
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On the back cut off any extra leads left over from the new bulb installation. Only do this when soldering is fully completed. |
| Here is what it should look like once completed. Note how I repaired my bulb cover. When you put the bulb cover back on, it will be pretty loose as the bulb is smaller than the original. A small dab (very small!) of superclue to hold the bottom of the bulb cover to the circuit board will work great. |
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Reassembly: put the circuit board back onto the back of the module, and put in the hex head screw. take the front of the module and assemble it with the volume button and the pivot rod. Flip it down on the table and take the back half and press them together and make sure everything lines up. Once together it is time for assembly back into the car. This is tricky. Find a friend with really small fingers, or use a thin screwdriver to make it easier. Take your time, and do not tug the wires too hard. The module has clips on the back that secure it into a rubber interface in the area where the back of the module meets the steering wheel. Start the car. Turn your lights on and if the modules light up... Enjoy the Cereal bar! |
Copyright @ acidpee@rochester.rr.com